Genarator for camper

Question:

I have a travel trailer (fifth wheel) that uses 30 amps when in a trailer park. I would like to buy a genarator for camping where there is no hook ups. What would be the kw and a light one that I can but in back of my pickup and take it out whene I get ready to hook it up to my trailer. If this is not the right group please let me know. Marvin

Response:

> I have a travel trailer (fifth wheel) that uses 30 amps when in a trailer > park.

Actually *uses* 30A? At 120V? Or is the service equipment (master breaker, whatever) rated for this as a *maximum*? > I would like to buy a genarator for camping where there is no hook

ups. Advise getting a very quiet one. Some people actually go camping for peace, quiet, simplicity and the sanctity of the great outdoors, and are not keen to be accosted by the noise and stink of a portable piece of overbearing city-style nonsense parked close-by. Mind you, they tend to be the types who don’t carry firearms either, so you can always just shoot ‘em if they get uppity. But I digress. > What would be the kw

Ignoring power factor, 30A * 120V = 3600W = 3.6kW. If you really need all this juice, you might want to shop for a 4 or even 5kW unit (which isn’t likely to be real light) so that it isn’t working too hard. If you look closely at specs, you’ll often find that a "Blah-de-blah 3500" for example, may be rated at 3500W peak, but only 3000W continuous, so beware. But I’ll bet this 30A is the service maximum, and a better idea would be to try to get an idea of your actual usage, either by looking at the load specification labels on your power-consumin’ gizmos and doing some adding, or by turning on all the stuff you’re likely to be using at once and making a measurement. Since you’re asking the question, I assume the latter may require finding a friend or cooperative electrician with the appropriate meter and knowledge to use it, but the actual test will only take a few minutes. I would think / hope that your worst-case requirement is a lot less than 3.6kW. You still want to buy a bit more capability than you need (otherwise you will overtax an undersized unit) but not too much (otherwise you are wasting $$, dragging too much weight). > and a light one that I can but in back of my pickup > and take it out whene I get ready to hook it up to my trailer. > If this is not the right group please let me know.

Lots of folks with gennie experience here, more than I. You might try alt.rv, for some directly-applicable experience and recommendations. In fact, perhaps I’ll just cross-post this, why not? Honda does have a couple of electronic inverter type units that are quieter, lighter, and reportedly deliver cleaner power than conventional gennies, but they are 120V-only (no 240V; probably OK in your case) and I think the biggest one is around 3kW(?) I owned one for a brief moment before I realized I had potential need of 240V, so traded it back in on a conventional Honda. As luck would have it, of course, I’ve never needed the 240V after all… Again, if you do a real measurement of your needs, you might find something of this power will suit the purpose. An inverter-type will save on weight, and perhaps be quiet enough to avoid an assault by enraged tent-dwelling tree-huggers in the middle of your evening 5.1-channel surround DVD movie. Happy trails, -=s

Response:

I agree with the above poster that you need to find out what loads you want to run on the generator. Also if you have anything that’s 220volts (instead of 120), you’ll have get a generator that can handle that or don’t run that appliance. For campsites, I *highly* recommend getting a generator that’s as quiet as you can buy. You will pay more for this, but I can sure say that nothing frustrates me more then hearing a noisy generator thats even several hundred feet away. If you only need 120 volts, and less than 3KW, I highly recommend the Inverter Honda’s already mentioned. I have the EU3000is and absolutely love it. It’s so quiet, you can actually hold a normal conversation right next to it. As far as I know, this is the quietest gasoline powered generator you can buy. Weighs about 135 lbs. It’s also very fuel efficient. http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/generator/models/eu3000is.htm or a smaller one…. http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/generator/models/eu2000i.htm Before you buy any generator other than the Honda mentioned above, ask the dealer for a demo so you can see how loud it is! That’ll convince you. Good luck. Jason http://www.theftlibrary.com/

Response:

Thanks for the input. When we had the toaster , mirco wave TV and oil heater on we tripped a breaker in the camper. The hookup at RV camp site for full hookup  is 30 amps 120 volts. So I just figered that if I want to use it at a river to go fishing I would need 30 amps 120 volts which is also run through an inverter for the 12 volt dc lights. I will post to the newsgroup you suggested. Marvin

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Response:

> Thanks for the input. When we had the toaster , mirco wave TV and > oil heater on we tripped a breaker in the camper.

Yeow. Heaters are typically the most power-hungry devices in the arsenal, and you just listed three of them. > The hookup at RV > camp site for full hookup  is 30 amps 120 volts. So I just figered that > if I want to use it at a river to go fishing I would need 30 amps 120 volts > which is also run through an inverter for the 12 volt dc lights.

A little intelligent sequencing could go a long way here. The TV is probably insignificant in this picture (no pun intended). If you resolve only to use the microwave, toaster and heater one at a time, you might be OK with a 2kW unit, and certainly you’d have bags o’ power with 3kW. Typically microwaves and toasters aren’t on for long periods of time, so that shouldn’t be much of a hardship. OTOH, if you don’t want to have to think about what’s on and what ain’t, you’ll have to pay the price for that luxury and haul the weight. The heater could be up to 1500W, the toaster 1200W or so, and the microwave – depends. 600 to 1200W is typical, methinks. Add the TV and some lights, and you could be looking at a 5kW unit — at least — if you want to behave as though you’re plugged into the grid back home. I’d go with intelligent sequencing and save a bag of dough on the gennie. But that’s me. The most power-hungry device I take camping is my flashlight, and I have a solar charger for that. > I will post to the newsgroup you suggested.

Actually I cross-posted my reply, so the word’s already out in alt.rv. -=s

Response:

typically, campers don’t have 220v service. — Steve Spence Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.dns2go.com/ Human powered devices, equipment, and transport – http://www.webconx.dns2go.com/2000/humanpower.htm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I agree with the above poster that you need to find out what loads you want > to run on the generator. Also if you have anything that’s 220volts (instead > of 120), you’ll have get a generator that can handle that or don’t run that > appliance. > For campsites, I *highly* recommend getting a generator that’s as quiet as > you can buy. You will pay more for this, but I can sure say that nothing > frustrates me more then hearing a noisy generator thats even several hundred > feet away. > If you only need 120 volts, and less than 3KW, I highly recommend the > Inverter Honda’s already mentioned. I have the EU3000is and absolutely love > it. It’s so quiet, you can actually hold a normal conversation right next to > it. As far as I know, this is the quietest gasoline powered generator you > can buy. Weighs about 135 lbs. It’s also very fuel efficient. > http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/generator/models/eu3000is.htm > or a smaller one…. > http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/generator/models/eu2000i.htm > Before you buy any generator other than the Honda mentioned above, ask the > dealer for a demo so you can see how loud it is! That’ll convince you. > Good luck. > Jason > http://www.theftlibrary.com/

Response:

You can buy a sequencer from kuncow on ebay for $22 US. You plug it has three outlets (recepticals) you plug the microwave into one. The frig and whatever into the other. When you use the microwave the other two outlets are shut off. Simple and no thought required. I just ordered one to try at my cabin. I have 5KW’s on one generator head (I have two generator heads on one diesel engine) and wanted to limit the load on it so I can run the window unit AC and not have to worry about overloading the system when someone wants to use the microwave while all the other loads are on. Offgridman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Thanks for the input. When we had the toaster , mirco wave TV and >oil heater on we tripped a breaker in the camper. > Yeow. Heaters are typically the most power-hungry devices in the > arsenal, and you just listed three of them. >The hookup at RV >camp site for full hookup  is 30 amps 120 volts. So I just figered > that >if I want to use it at a river to go fishing I would need 30 amps > 120 volts >which is also run through an inverter for the 12 volt dc lights. > A little intelligent sequencing could go a long way here. The TV is > probably insignificant in this picture (no pun intended). If you > resolve only to use the microwave, toaster and heater one at a time, > you might be OK with a 2kW unit, and certainly you’d have bags o’ > power with 3kW. Typically microwaves and toasters aren’t on for long > periods of time, so that shouldn’t be much of a hardship. > OTOH, if you don’t want to have to think about what’s on and what > ain’t, you’ll have to pay the price for that luxury and haul the > weight. The heater could be up to 1500W, the toaster 1200W or so, and > the microwave – depends. 600 to 1200W is typical, methinks. Add the TV > and some lights, and you could be looking at a 5kW unit — at least — > if you want to behave as though you’re plugged into the grid back > home. > I’d go with intelligent sequencing and save a bag of dough on the > gennie. But that’s me. The most power-hungry device I take camping is > my flashlight, and I have a solar charger for that. >I will post to the newsgroup you suggested. > Actually I cross-posted my reply, so the word’s already out in alt.rv. > -=s

Response:

>You can buy a sequencer from kuncow on ebay for $22 US. >You plug it has three outlets (recepticals) you plug the microwave into >one. The frig and whatever into the other. When you use the microwave >the other two outlets are shut off. Simple and no thought required.

Thank you thank you thank you. I’ve been looking for something like this for a long, long, time. then again, I can’t find kuncow on ebay, and google doesn’t have any pages with that word. Would you have another brandname perhaps? — Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

Response:

kuncow is his user name on ebay here is the URL http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2034628711 IT is made by Avanti Good luck – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->You can buy a sequencer from kuncow on ebay for $22 US. >You plug it has three outlets (recepticals) you plug the microwave into >one. The frig and whatever into the other. When you use the microwave >the other two outlets are shut off. Simple and no thought required. > Thank you thank you thank you. I’ve been looking for something like this > for a long, long, time. > then again, I can’t find kuncow on ebay, and google doesn’t have any pages > with that word. > Would you have another brandname perhaps?

Response:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2033686432 Sorry I pasted the incorrect URL in. The correct one is above – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > kuncow is his user name on ebay here is the URL > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2034628711 > IT is made by Avanti > Good luck > writes: >> You can buy a sequencer from kuncow on ebay for $22 US. >> You plug it has three outlets (recepticals) you plug the microwave >> into one. The frig and whatever into the other. When you use the >> microwave the other two outlets are shut off. Simple and no thought >> required. > Thank you thank you thank you. I’ve been looking for something like > this for a long, long, time. > then again, I can’t find kuncow on ebay, and google doesn’t have any > pages with that word. > Would you have another brandname perhaps?

Response:

Thanks for all of the help that you’ll have given me. That is right campers have no 220 that I know of. I used to camp with just a flashlight but I have a camper now and I need to use it or sell it. My girlfreind does not want me to sell it. Since I am 64 yrs. old camping with just a flashlight is to hard on an old man. Marvin

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Response:

Way cool! -=s

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You can buy a sequencer from kuncow on ebay for $22 US. > You plug it has three outlets (recepticals) you plug the microwave into > one. The frig and whatever into the other. When you use the microwave > the other two outlets are shut off. Simple and no thought required. I > just ordered one to try at my cabin. I have 5KW’s on one generator head > (I have two generator heads on one diesel engine) and wanted to limit > the load on it so I can run the window unit AC and not have to worry > about overloading the system when someone wants to use the microwave > while all the other loads are on. > Offgridman >>Thanks for the input. When we had the toaster , mirco wave TV and >>oil heater on we tripped a breaker in the camper. > Yeow. Heaters are typically the most power-hungry devices in the > arsenal, and you just listed three of them. >>The hookup at RV >>camp site for full hookup  is 30 amps 120 volts. So I just figered > that >>if I want to use it at a river to go fishing I would need 30 amps > 120 volts >>which is also run through an inverter for the 12 volt dc lights. > A little intelligent sequencing could go a long way here. The TV is > probably insignificant in this picture (no pun intended). If you > resolve only to use the microwave, toaster and heater one at a time, > you might be OK with a 2kW unit, and certainly you’d have bags o’ > power with 3kW. Typically microwaves and toasters aren’t on for long > periods of time, so that shouldn’t be much of a hardship. > OTOH, if you don’t want to have to think about what’s on and what > ain’t, you’ll have to pay the price for that luxury and haul the > weight. The heater could be up to 1500W, the toaster 1200W or so, and > the microwave – depends. 600 to 1200W is typical, methinks. Add the TV > and some lights, and you could be looking at a 5kW unit — at least — > if you want to behave as though you’re plugged into the grid back > home. > I’d go with intelligent sequencing and save a bag of dough on the > gennie. But that’s me. The most power-hungry device I take camping is > my flashlight, and I have a solar charger for that. >>I will post to the newsgroup you suggested. > Actually I cross-posted my reply, so the word’s already out in alt.rv. > -=s

Response:

I have 2 50watt pv panels, 4 deep cycle batteries, and run all 12volt appliances in my popup. I should get a 110v inverter, but have not got around to it. Most sites have electric, so it has not been much of an issue. — Steve Spence Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.dns2go.com/ Human powered devices, equipment, and transport – http://www.webconx.dns2go.com/2000/humanpower.htm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for all of the help that you’ll have given me. > That is right campers have no 220 that I know of. > I used to camp with just a flashlight but I have a camper now and I > need to use it or sell it. My girlfreind does not want me to sell it. > Since I am 64 yrs. old camping with just a flashlight is to hard on an > old man. > Marvin

Response:

> I have 2 50watt pv panels, 4 deep cycle batteries, and run all 12volt > appliances in my popup. I should get a 110v inverter, but have not got > around to it. Most sites have electric, so it has not been much of an issue.

Should I ask where you put all of these deep cycle batteries in a pop-up trailer (on the hitch, etc)?  I just replaced my standard "Interstate Deep Cycle" (405 CCA, 505MCA) with a Exide Orbital Select (same size as my limited space that was available in my Nash 5th wheel trailer), which has 750CCA,950MCA..  Although I do not have any panels yet, that battery should survive much better than the crappy Interstate one did that came with the trailer when I bought it last year.  I’d love to put in another couple of batteries, but the space issue is the problem for me..

Response:

>> I have 2 50watt pv panels, 4 deep cycle batteries, and run all 12volt > appliances in my popup. I should get a 110v inverter, but have not got > around to it. Most sites have electric, so it has not been much of an issue. >Should I ask where you put all of these deep cycle batteries in a pop-up >trailer (on the hitch, etc)?  I just replaced my standard "Interstate >Deep Cycle" (405 CCA, 505MCA) with a Exide Orbital Select (same size as >my limited space that was available in my Nash 5th wheel trailer), which >has 750CCA,950MCA..  Although I do not have any panels yet, that battery >should survive much better than the crappy Interstate one did that came >with the trailer when I bought it last year.  I’d love to put in another >couple of batteries, but the space issue is the problem for me..

From what you are describing, you don’t have deep cycle batteries, regardless of the "name" the manufacturer may apply to them.  CCA is a term that is applied to starting batteries.  Deep cycle batteries are rated in Ampere Hours.   For a good education on living on 12 volt power, read the information at www.amplepower.com. George

Response:

> From what you are describing, you don’t have deep cycle batteries, > regardless of the "name" the manufacturer may apply to them.  CCA is a > term that is applied to starting batteries.  Deep cycle batteries are > rated in Ampere Hours.  

Actually, there was no AH rating on the Interstate battery at all.. Just the two numbers I previously mentioned.  However, the Exide is 50AH for 20 hours IIRC.. (the CCA/MPA were also there and stuck in my head as well)..

Response:

under the seat in the "dinette". externally vented. — Steve Spence Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.dns2go.com/ Human powered devices, equipment, and transport – http://www.webconx.dns2go.com/2000/humanpower.htm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have 2 50watt pv panels, 4 deep cycle batteries, and run all 12volt > appliances in my popup. I should get a 110v inverter, but have not got > around to it. Most sites have electric, so it has not been much of an issue. > Should I ask where you put all of these deep cycle batteries in a pop-up > trailer (on the hitch, etc)?  I just replaced my standard "Interstate > Deep Cycle" (405 CCA, 505MCA) with a Exide Orbital Select (same size as > my limited space that was available in my Nash 5th wheel trailer), which > has 750CCA,950MCA..  Although I do not have any panels yet, that battery > should survive much better than the crappy Interstate one did that came > with the trailer when I bought it last year.  I’d love to put in another > couple of batteries, but the space issue is the problem for me..

Response:

>> From what you are describing, you don’t have deep cycle batteries, > regardless of the "name" the manufacturer may apply to them.  CCA is a > term that is applied to starting batteries.  Deep cycle batteries are > rated in Ampere Hours.   >Actually, there was no AH rating on the Interstate battery at all.. Just >the two numbers I previously mentioned.  However, the Exide is 50AH for >20 hours IIRC.. (the CCA/MPA were also there and stuck in my head as >well)..

Then what you have is not  a deep cycle battery.  One is a starting battery and, if used in deep cycle service will be short lived and the other is a compromise battery.  Read the reference I provided and learn about the differences. George

Response:

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